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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 11:10 am 
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I use a USB wireless adapter on my older desktop computer..... it is a TRENDnet AC1200 Dual Band Wireless Adapter. My router is a Microsoft MN-700 Wireless-G Base Station.

I am currently running Win 7 Ultimate and Win 10 Pro in a dual boot mode. When I boot to Win 10, my computer is automatically connected to my home network. But when I boot to Win 7, I get the message that a connection is available but no connection has been made. If I then go into the Network & Sharing Center, I can make a connection.

In both the Win 7 and Win 10 systems, the 'connect automatically' box is checked.

Any idea how to make my Win 7 system connect automatically to my home network?

Thanks in advance..........

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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 12:43 pm 
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Get a new router? LOL Only slightly facetious. Dang that is an old router! You are two generations away from current protocol.

Those were great routers, came out of Microsoft Research labs when no one else knew what they were doing in the consumer router space. Microsoft's were the only routers to set themselves up secured by default. With all the others , you had to be a guru to set up security (passwords, encryption and so forth), and it was done after initial setup.

When you set up your connection, if you go to the properties, is there a checkbox to connect automatically?

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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 1:19 pm 
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Patty, I hear you........and I am two generations away from a lot of things, lol. But I subscribe to the old adage........if it ain't broke, don't try and fix it. I mean, I still use and love Win 7, I still use and love Microsoft Office 2007, I still drive and love a 2008 Chevy Silverado, and three of my favorite utility programs must run under Win XP (these three programs are about 20 years old and the software companies that created them are no longer in business).

Now if (and I emphasize 'if') I were to buy a new router for my home network, what brand/model of simple router would you recommend I get?

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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 8:18 pm 
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If you like the router do not replace the thing.

Look at your situation, yes, the router is OLD but it works for your network when you are in Win 10. If the router were to be the issue I would THINK that the issue would be reversed where it worked in Windows 7 but not 10. I would think it more likely that the issue is within your Windows 7 network setup.

As an actual answer to your last question I would recommend a D-Link router if you replace. Of course this is just personal preference as I happen to like D-Link routers.

Hopefully our "networking guru" Steve will see this and offer something simple. Personally I'd probably kill the Windows 7 side of the network and rebuild.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 8:38 pm 
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jaylach wrote:
If you like the router do not replace the thing.

Look at your situation, yes, the router is OLD but it works for your network when you are in Win 10. If the router were to be the issue I would THINK that the issue would be reversed where it worked in Windows 7 but not 10. I would think it more likely that the issue is within your Windows 7 network setup.

Personally I'd probably kill the Windows 7 side of the network and rebuild.

Jay, I don't know how to kill the Win 7 side. This same router serves my new computer running Win 7, and I certainly don't want to kill that.

I'm thinking it is the network adapter, which is different on my new and old computers. My new computer uses the 'Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller', whereas my old computer running the dual mode described above uses the wireless 'TRENDnet AC1200 USB adapter.'

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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 9:16 pm 
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I'd check to see if there is a new driver for the Realtek.

The reasons to upgrade a working router would be three-fold: Speed, reach and security.

The newest protocol is A/C. It's going to have the most power, furthest reach, and strongest signal. As far as security goes, it's going to have the strongest encryption protocol - but I don't recall exactly what protocols the MN-700 supports.

I was very disappointed in the D-Link I had. I tend to like Belkin hardware. Were I to get a new router, I would try Belkin first.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:06 am 
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I suspect that the original problem is the adapter under Windows 7. A newer driver may resolve it.

As for a new router, as you can tell already, it's personal preference. I, for example am not thrilled with D-Link or Belkin devices, but I don't dislike them either. The quality and performance of all of the major brands is comparable these days. If you decide to shop for an upgrade, start with a price point and look at features. By the way, I've still got an MN-700 in service as an access point at my house.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:25 am 
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MacDuffie wrote:
I'd check to see if there is a new driver for the Realtek.
Patty, I probably confuse the issue since I am currently running two computers....my new one with Win 7 Pro and my old one in dual boot mode with Win 7 Ultimate and Win 10 Pro.

The Realtek adapter came with my new computer and is only 6 months old. There is no problem with internet connection on this new computer.

My older computer is where I use the USB TRENDnet adapter. There is no problem with internet connection when I'm using Win 10. It's when I'm using Win 7 where I have the problem.

I think I will do as Steve later suggests and try to update the Win 7 driver for this TRENDnet adapter. I'm betting that since I recently installed Win 10 that the driver for Win 10 was updated, but not the driver for Win 7. If that doesn't work I will probably invest in a new USB adapter.
The reasons to upgrade a working router would be three-fold: Speed, reach and security.

The newest protocol is A/C. It's going to have the most power, furthest reach, and strongest signal. As far as security goes, it's going to have the strongest encryption protocol - but I don't recall exactly what protocols the MN-700 supports.
I don't fully understand security protocols, but my MN-700 uses 128-bit WEP and requires a 26 character key code. Another computer in my house can't access my router without keying in this code......I know because when I buy a new computer, I have to go looking for this code.
I was very disappointed in the D-Link I had. I tend to like Belkin hardware. Were I to get a new router, I would try Belkin first.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:30 am 
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sboots wrote:
I suspect that the original problem is the adapter under Windows 7. A newer driver may resolve it.
Thanks, Steve, I will try that. I'm betting that since I recently installed Win 10 that the adapter driver for Win 10 was updated, but not the driver for Win 7. If that doesn't work I will probably invest in a new USB adapter.

As for a new router, as you can tell already, it's personal preference. I, for example am not thrilled with D-Link or Belkin devices, but I don't dislike them either. The quality and performance of all of the major brands is comparable these days. If you decide to shop for an upgrade, start with a price point and look at features. By the way, I've still got an MN-700 in service as an access point at my house.

-steve

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 11:16 am 
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I like and own this one. Easy to set up and use. Has great range
https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-AC1750-S ... tgear+6400

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 11:58 am 
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128-bit WEP is very weak. It does depend on your nearest neighbor though, and whether or not you might have folks sitting in a car outside your house. ;) If you are isolated and rural, I wouldn't worry about it.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 1:30 pm 
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As Patty indicated, WEP is fairly easy to break/hack. WPA-2 is what you typically want to use -- if available.
However, as I noted, I'm still using my MN-700 and WEP. Nothing travels over that 802.11G connection that would be of interest to any hacker. My PCs on the network are all locked down, as are devices, so the worst that could happen is someone hacks into my network to use the WiFi connection -- not likely since there are several open WiFi routers in the neighborhood that would be easier to use than bothering with my pokey 802.11G connection. :-)
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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 2:32 pm 
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MacDuffie wrote:
128-bit WEP is very weak. It does depend on your nearest neighbor though, and whether or not you might have folks sitting in a car outside your house. ;) If you are isolated and rural, I wouldn't worry about it.

Yes, it is fairly old technology. But I am pretty isolated and rural. And my DSL speed is so slow that if hackers come in their car, they better bring a lunch and plan on staying awhile, lol. But maybe a new router will be the next thing I buy.

@chasbox - that is a pretty impressive Netgear router.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 2:39 pm 
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sboots wrote:
My PCs on the network are all locked down, as are devices, so the worst that could happen is someone hacks into my network to use the WiFi connection -- not likely since there are several open WiFi routers in the neighborhood that would be easier to use than bothering with my pokey 802.11G connection. :-)
-steve

Steve, what exactly do you mean by your PCs on the network are all locked down? Is that jargon for some specific security measure or program?

BTW, it looks like I'm using the most current Win 7 driver for my TRENDnet USB network adapter, so I guess that isn't my automatic-connect problem. Do you have any other ideas I can try? It does connect automatically in Win 10 and I can connect manually in Win 7, but just not automatically.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 3:32 pm 
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Might just be the way Windows 7 treats USB devices. It might not start it up in the same order as 10 does so they may cause the problem with connecting.


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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 4:00 pm 
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Of course! Good point, dvair. Bb, try unplugging your USB wirless device during boot, then plug it in once you are up and running. This, btw, is a pretty common fix for lots of USB problems, particularly with older USB devices, or older operating systems.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 4:10 pm 
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bbarry wrote:

@chasbox - that is a pretty impressive Netgear router.

Works for me. With DSL you don't need one like mine, but you should upgrade yours

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 6:07 pm 
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MacDuffie wrote:
Of course! Good point, dvair. Bb, try unplugging your USB wirless device during boot, then plug it in once you are up and running. This, btw, is a pretty common fix for lots of USB problems, particularly with older USB devices, or older operating systems.

Patty, that didn't help. I even changed USB ports, but then I had to re-enter my 26 digit WEP key, which is more trouble than just connecting manually.

Maybe I'll look around and see if I have another adapter.

Also, I friend gave me a Cisco Valet router a few years ago. I haven't even opened the box. Do you know anything about these routers?

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 6:41 pm 
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bbarry wrote:
Steve, what exactly do you mean by your PCs on the network are all locked down? Is that jargon for some specific security measure or program?

BTW, it looks like I'm using the most current Win 7 driver for my TRENDnet USB network adapter, so I guess that isn't my automatic-connect problem. Do you have any other ideas I can try? It does connect automatically in Win 10 and I can connect manually in Win 7, but just not automatically.


I mean that you can't access the file system without an ID and password, Guest is off, nothing has the default password for admin access and no services are running to expose ports for sharing.

Without getting into the guts of the driver or your setup I imagine it is the way that Windows 7 is activating the USB adapter for use vs. Windows 10. It could be as simple as power saving settings for the USB hub or the adapter, but I think I'd simply connect manually rather that poke at it. Alternatively, when you buy that new router, get a new network adapter for that PC.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 6:52 pm 
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Is the USB adaptor plugged in a front of back USB port? If a front port switch to a back. I can't really prove but it is my understanding that very often the back ports are locked in before the front.

Is the router a Cisco Valet or a Cisco Valet Plus? I don't seem to find much of anything with a quick search of 'Cisco Valet' but the following is a review of the 'Cisco Valet Plus'. If it is the 'Plus' the review calls it
http://www.cnet.com/products/cisco-valet-plus/#!
The review speaks pretty highly on the thing but does throw in one fault, it does not have a USB port for setting up a network printer or storage. In your case probably not a big deal.

I've never used Cisco routers except at work and the network performance is horrendous but I don't think it the fault of the Cisco routers but rather an OLD A-400 server that was supposed to be upgraded years ago.

Cisco tends to be thought of as business hardware but does have a consumer line. In fact in 2003 they bought out Linksys. Hopefully they made Linksys better as the only one I ever owned had to be reset multiple times a week.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 8:48 pm 
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jaylach wrote:
Is the USB adaptor plugged in a front of back USB port? If a front port switch to a back. I can't really prove but it is my understanding that very often the back ports are locked in before the front.
It's plugged into a back port.....and I tried two different ports. I have had problems with front ports before, so I typically try and use the ones in back.
Is the router a Cisco Valet or a Cisco Valet Plus? I don't seem to find much of anything with a quick search of 'Cisco Valet' but the following is a review of the 'Cisco Valet Plus'. If it is the 'Plus' the review calls it
http://www.cnet.com/products/cisco-valet-plus/#!
It is a plain Cisco Valet, Model M10, and it sells on Amazon for $59.95. The Valet Plus is Model M20, and it sells on Amazon for $79.95. I may try mine......like I said, it is still shrink wrapped.

The review speaks pretty highly on the thing but does throw in one fault, it does not have a USB port for setting up a network printer or storage. In your case probably not a big deal.


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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:04 pm 
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You are probably better off just upgrading hardware as has been suggested but that Cisco router MAY be an answer if you do not want to upgrade adaptors and such. If you open the box and a flash drive is included you could possibly be set. Of course you would have to switch to the Cisco router.

Please do not do this unless both Steve and Patty agree as they both know much more than I as to this aspect of computers.

If your Cisco router includes a flash drive the purpose of the drive is to automatically set up a network. You would insert it in to the main system and allow it to do a network setup. It will automatically detect your network adaptor, set encryption and then save settings back to the flash drive. You then plug the flash drive in to each system you want connected to the network and it uses the saved data to set up each additional system.

If you try the above PLEASE do, at least, a system restore point if not a complete system image before attempting on each system.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:27 pm 
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This would appear to be why Nir Sofer wrote USBDeview but i'll leave that for others with more experience to decide ;)

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html


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 Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 11:55 pm 
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I don't know anything about the Cisco routers, Bb. Sorry.

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 Post Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 5:46 am 
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Help with Cisco Valet here
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=ci ... m10+manual

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